(Never mind the pic of me wearing it… it’ll look much nicer on my DIL to be!)

Or I certainly hope so?

My small swatch says 19.5 stitches and 26 rows = 4” on 4.5mm

Moss stitch gauge from the sleeve:20 x 30! Yahoo, made exact gauge:-))

Using fairly large needles, 4.5mm for the body, for this as I want a light weight almost airy fabric. Yak is too warm for a tight gauge and West Coast weather.

Knit up the better part of the sleeve and gave it a wash. It looked really holey and stringy before washing and after turned into a beautiful, filled in sleeve and I am very happy with the drape and fabric! I am really enjoying the knitting and look of the moss stitch! Not sure why I have never knit moss stitch, it’s so much easier than seed stitch!

March 13th:

The sleeves are done:-)
127 grams for sleeves. (For both, not each. Shoot, maybe I don’t need the extra cone that is on the way to me? I can alway make her some accessories, right? :)

• Knit the sleeves flat and added 2 stitches to the total for selvage stitches. (I don’t mind seaming and since the rest of the pattern is knit flat, it’s better, gauge wise, to knit them flat as well.)
• I did the paired longtail cast on instead of tubular.
• I did NOT try to match the moss stitches on my raglan decreases and decided to keep it simple and use st.st.’s It gives it another design element, right? LOL

Washed, blocked and ready to seam.

Cast on last night for the body.

Mar. 17th

This sweater is definitely daytime/sober knitting! I’d be fine but the chevron pattern takes some concentration! (It does become more intuitive but you still have to be alert or you’ll change the moss to seed… or mess up the chevron! I’ve done both and missed it… oops, I ain’t frogging!)

• Placed the islets on either side of the chevron for the fronts and sides and the 2 on the back where asked. The larger sizes have a bit further of a space and I thought it would look better this way.

I keep thinking about the collar…I like the shape but I don’t like the look of the increase spots. Also I have no intention of sewing on the collar and will likely knit it on and attach it to picked up stitches around the neck. (I’ll pick them all up like I was knitting a button band normally and attach to that.) My yarn will not hold the 1 x 1k1b rib well and it will fall flat so I might do a twisted 1x1 rib like I did with Darrowby ?? Yet to be decided but I do need to do something different from what is stated!

March 29th:

Body is done as well as both sleeves and is looking great! I’ll give it a wash today and figure out what I am going to do with the collar.

Belt and likely the collar is being worked in a proper K1B stitch on both sides of work. For me, that’s a 13 stitches…

Row 1: knit
Row 2: slip one, k1b, *p1, k1b* k1
Row 3:Slip one, p1, *k1b, p1* k1
Repeat rows 2 and 3.

This is just easier for me and also makes the front side and the back identical. (Although I should have had an even number to cast on so I could just repeat row 2 over and over… My mistake.)

Collar:

No way I am knitting a collar as instructed and sewing it all together later! I’ll knit it on! (Not doing the back collar thing either, I’ll just knit across and do matching decreases on the other side.

I picked up 2 stitches for every 4 rows on the ribbing and 3 for every 4 rows on the verticals. 1/1 on the back of the neck.. I want a wider button band so CO a few extra stitches as well.

Again, working a proper k1b rib on both sides of work. Proper k1b double increases and decreases. (It’s a folded collar and should be identical as possible on both sides!) k1b increase is a k1 into first leg of the lower stitch, p1, k1 into the other leg of the stitch below. For my decreases I worked to the decrease spot, start the decrease on a knit stitch, and slip one, k2tog and slip the slipped stitch over.

If you are wondering where to find more instruction for the K1B ribbing, check out my Burning the Ball from Both Ends scarf. (There’s a simple sewn BO instruction there as well that works and looks great!) It’s all done with knit stitches instead of the K1b, p1 thing but it’s exactly the same results! I find it easier to K1b into a knit stitch rather than mess with the purl bump.

April 12th.

The knitting is complete and now just needs a good bath and the buttons and belt bands sew on! It’s gorgeous and imho, perfect! The only thing I might have to fiddle with is my seemingly sloppy button holes. (But they might be OK after the bath!?)

April 22

I set this aside for a bit to get a start on Brennan’s sweater. Yesterday I got the buttons on, sewed on the belt loops and lengthened the belt a bit. I also decided to put the inside pockets on.

Pockets:

• I picked up 23 stitches from the first row after the ribbing under the Chevron section. (I then cast on 1 extra stitch on either end as a salvage stitch to sew to the sweater later.)

• Work the pattern repeat 7 or 8 times and BO with a 3 stitch I-cord BO. (I-cord will be least likely to stretch out of shape… and I can run an elastic through it to help it keep it’s shape.)

I think I may as well do this on both inside fronts.

This pattern, although I am going blind trying to find all of the sections written in light freaking grey, is gorgeous and feels so comfortable to wear! I really wish that this was my sweater… but I couldn’t wear mustard if you paid me! If Shanae doesn’t like it, I’ll bring it home and dye it!! ;-)

496 grams used.

• I felt the need to tighten up the eyelets on the belt loops. They were stretching out already and it’s not been worn yet. It was a bit of a chore, 20 eyelets later, but I think it was worth doing!

Now I AM done:-)

Finished measurements:

Underarm to hem = 17 1/2” (18 repeats + hem)
Chest = 49”
Total length = 25” (25 repeats + hem)
Arm depth = 7” (14”)
Upper arm length (raglan, shoulder to middle underarm.) = 11”
Underarm to cuff = 18” (19 repeats + cuff)
Total arm length = 27 1/2” (30 repeats + cuff)
Button band = 3 1/4 “ wide
V starts at 11” (11th repeat)

• Next time, I’ll place the top button a little lower. (And adjust the others accordingly!)
• Arms are a tad long… an inch or so shorter would have been better.

Part 2, the same sweater but different colour and changing a few details for a more manly version, is here.