For me that was a very long project. Got smaller gauge, so at first made size 44 3/4 for my 40 size bust. Wrong decision, garment was too small. Frogged, re-knitted in size 48. Sleeve caps were too narrow, recalculated for wider ones, re-knitted again.
After re-knitted all sweater twice, the result came out not so bad. After blocking fabric was too sloppy, did not hold form at all, so I put wet sweater in a dryer for an half an hour to felt it a little bit. I’m very sad not making that gorgeous design from original brooklyn tweed yarn.

Made one significant modification. If you like it, try to do it in your project.
After some time I noticed in the pattern and finished projects that black under sleeve in the lower part is too narrow in comparison with white upper part and when you hold your hand hanging parallel your body, white upper part covers black part and you can not see it at all. That is because our hand is narrower in the bottom and wider in the top (conic). So I decided to split under sleeve increases equally between under and upper sleeve parts and to cast on wider under sleeve and narrower upper sleeve. So for size 48 I cast on 21 st for under sleeve (not 9 st) and 31 st for upper sleeve (not 43 st). Now when your hand hangs parallel your body, black and white parts look more proportional in comparison with body panel inserts (see 2, 4, 5, 6, 9th pictures).

If I do it again, I would make my side panels 4-6 rows shorter than a back and a front (or use .25 mm smaller needles). That would equalize the row gauge difference between the panel st st and main texture pattern. In my project (and some finished projects too) side panels hanging down being a little bit too baggy (too long).

And if I do it again, I would leave one st st after selvedge st in the front and the back to have clean straight sewing line with black side panels (as in sleeves).