And an H crochet hook

Yarn dyed by me. 300yds before dyeing.

Taking my own 12 petal modification of the Hemlock Ring and making a little shoulder wrap that’s 9 repeats (I call it 9.5; it’s 9 when casting on, 10 once the feather and fan has begun, but it starts in the middle of a repeat) and a 3/4 circle rather than 12 and a full circle.

As long as the petals don’t make me look like Kermit the Frog, I figure it’ll be good.

9.5 (10) repeats makes it scarf length (measuring widthwise on the piece), good for tossing over the shoulder. Whether it’ll be long enough the other way, however, remains to be seen after blocking. If it’s too short for my purposes, I might frog it and work it up at 7.5 (8) repeats to make it more shawl-like.

40in wide on the top edge (not going to bother measuring the wider, bottom edge since it’s scalloped). 12in long from the top edge to the longest point of the scalloped edge.

I think I’m going to keep it this size and block it for length. If I can get it to grow in length a bit, it’ll be perfect. It’s long enough to toss the end over my shoulder, but it will still wrap around the shoulders since it’s wider on the bottom edge.

Crocheted edging was similar to my Vertex modification. Same picot chain, but worked to bind off: chain 3, slip stitch into 2nd stitch, chain 1. Worked in the following slip stitched together to bind off order: 2, 2, *3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3. repeat from * to the last 4st and then 2, 2. Which only makes sense if you’re starting from my same stitch count. But it was 9.5 repeats and 3st selvedge on either side.

More pictures once it’s dry. I’m not blocking it aggressively as I don’t think it needs it and I’m too lazy to find a surface to which I can pin it. Also, I like it when things have the right shape because of the structure of the piece and not because it’s been blocked until it gives in.

This is for ME.

A soft 14in long after blocking, and if I tug on it, it gets longer. It’s perfect and so warm for what amounts to a tiny bit of nothing around my shoulders. I love it.

Some design notes:
Long tail cast on 105st with the #8s, 3st each edge for selvedge that was worked in k1p1 ribbing. Worked in ribbing for 4r and then changed to 9s and began row 20 of the pattern over stockinette except for the 3st selvedge that continued in ribbing. Each repeat began in the middle of the feather and fan lobe. When I finished the last pattern row of the petals, I switched to the #10s for the rest of the piece.

Symmetry everywhere. In my modification of this pattern, I made everything symmetrical that I could, including the twisted stitches and all the important directional decreases. All the “fans” are symmetrical, including the decreases, and I changed the rate of the eyelet rows to be more regular. This meant I was patterning on purl rows sometimes, but since it was just a matter of switching k2tog with p2tog and ssk with ssp, it wasn’t a big deal. I like it so much better this way, it was worth it. Also, since this modification has more petals than the original, the lobed effect of the feather and fan is more shallow. I like that better as well. I have to confess that the original is a bit amoeba-like for me. Also, my version is flat even without blocking.

After the last row of eyelets, I went on in garter stitch. It was only one row, but it gave me a nice decorative edge with the crochet bind off. I’d have liked to have had another row in garter stitch in there, but I ran out of yarn and had to bind off with just that one row. Still like the effect, though.