PLAN:
72 cylinder - tension 2.5 (0=mark to cylinder)
Heel Spring (used on all steps)
10 rows regular knitting
20 Rows Mock Ribbed 1x3
Transfer all HEEL mock rib needles to Cylinder
Hang Hem
PRE-HEEL 10 Rows
DEEPER HEEL - Wider/No wrap Heel
Foot - 68 rows (67 +1)
Toe - No wrap Toe
Scrap

These socks used 56g of yarn.

The pattern for this sock has been added to Ravelry. The written five page pattern is
https://tinyurl.com/cdmrhhss1

The matching video is CSM Cuff Down Mock Rib HH Shortie Sock - shareable YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/FY45JiqPga8

For more info see https://www.csmlove.com/my-youtube-videos

SOCK METHOD OVERVIEW:
-Cast-on with sock weight scrap
-Hybrid Mock Rib Hung Hem Cuff: Knit 10 rows, Mock Rib 1x3 for 20 rows, +4 Needle Deep Heel setup, Deep Heel +4 needles changed from Mock Rib empty slots to cylinder needles, remaining Heel Mock Rib empty slots to cylinder needles. All newly placed cylinder needles in this Heel have both neighbor specific stitches hung on that new cylinder needle, Hang Hem.
-Pre-Heel: 10 rows
-DEEPER HEEL +4 needles (raise needles start on 5th needle from 9 and 3 o’clock) - No Wrap Method - Last Heel Left and Right rows end with +3 needles to interlock stitches at ankle hole intersection.
-Foot: 69 rows*
-Add cylinder needles in all remaining mock rib empty slots. All final newly placed cylinder needles have only one neighbor specific stitch hung on that new cylinder needle
-Work last row (to make easier Kitchener toe closure later off machine)
-Toe - No Wrap Method - Decrease worked one needle from hash mark not to that mark.
-Add stitch markers (optional)
-Scrap sock weight yarn
A video has been created to match these written instructions.
Please see the full video at https://tinyurl.com/cuffdownMRHHShortieSocks or https://youtu.be/FY45JiqPga8
Also this pattern has been added to Ravelry.

GENERAL INFO:
-For best success, take each step one at a time however work each step clearly knowing where to be for the next part.
-This method is the same regardless to what CSM is used, higher or lower slot count cylinders might need more or less additional needles for the DEEPER HEEL.
-A Deeper Heel creates more of a cupping effect allowing shorter socks to stay put
-In my opinion and testing, adding a PRE-HEEL (segment between cuff and heel on cuff down socks) tends to better fit the heel and therefore stay in place
- I highly recommend using the Heel Spring throughout
-In my opinion one can make this sock without Mock Rib, however I feel without Mock Rib the sock doesn’t fit as nicely
-Scrap sock weight yarn is defined here as any fiber (acrylic or not) which is the same weight/diameter as your sock yarn
-To manage stitch tension I prefer to use sock weight scrap for just a few rows before/after a sock yarn project, economically I use an inexpensive cotton doily fiber between on machine projects (although its harder to hang the buckle and weights on - adding a hemostat clip helps)
-The Heel and the Toe are both worked on the side of the machine closest to me (between the 9-6-3 o’clock positions).
-When hanging a mock ribbed cuff in a hung hem, its easier to ensure all the stitches align by knitting some initial rows of the cuff at the start, otherwise stitches don’t align when hanging and/or can end up being too tight to hang.
-The No-Wrap Heel and Toe method were used - with slight differences on where to work final Heel row and where to decrease the Toe to.
-How deep or narrow you choose to work the heel/toe and how close to average heel marks you work during the decrease can be adapted for unique Heel anatomy.
-This awesome pattern starts and ends the same so additional socks can easily be made without extra setup.

THE BEST THING TO CONSIDER WHEN WORKING ANY SOCK RECIPE IS THAT YOU CAN EASILY PLUG YOUR OWN PREFERRED CUFF, HEEL OR TOE METHODS - IF THAT’S YOUR PREFERENCE

This VIDEO REVIEWS:
-The finished sock with detailed view
-The open sock toe as it appears once finished and off the machine
-Using cotton thread (or any non sock weight scrap) in addition to sock weight scrap yarn
-A hung hem cuff
-Adding mock rib 1x3 on the cuff
-Adding cylinder needles to certain empty mock rib slots
-Ensuring the deeper (wider heel) has no mock rib empty slots
-Hanging specific neighbor stitches from both sides on each newly added cylinder needle for the heel
-Hanging a specific neighbor stitch on one side for each newly added cylinder needle for the last row of the foot - before the toe
-Hanging the hem
-A Heel/Toe using the No Wrap method
-Ensuring the final Heel Left and Right rows are one row less than heel start to reduce heel intersection holes
-How to use a vintage Gearhart Hold Down heel tool
-How some yarn is more sticky on the machine - requiring stronger babysitting - than others
-Why it’s a good idea to stop one row from the end of your foot to first ensure all needles are cylinder needles (then work the last row) so that it’s easier to Kitchener or close the toes later
-Two ways to add yarn on the machine - 1 at the yarn source or 2 near the work (I just method 1)
-Two ways to fix a unknitted (but not dropped) cylinder stitch - 1 by lifting lower stitch over top or 2 lifting cylinder spring and managing cylinder needle to manually knit unknitted stitch (creates a more even tension on the stitch)
-How I separate the scrap from sock yarn
-How I Kitchener from the Purl side (inside)

HOW TO CREATE SOCKS THAT FIT DEPENDS ON THE GAUGE!
-I’ve made this pair of socks using my tension setting 2.5 dial turns from the tightest setting. This is something I determined beforehand. I generally work at 12-13 rows per inch. The resulting gauge differs by fiber and machine settings and cannot be truly known by anyone until they create a gauge swatch, have left it to rest, then washed and dried it.

When wishing to create a specific sized sock it is important to know what your stitch gauge is in relation to your CSM settings, machine and the yarn attributes. Simply following the same row numbers without having the same gauge will not give you a same sized sock like the one shown here. For tension setting info see https://ravel.me/karenramel/cgs

Looking for something specific and not finding it? Look it up by category at https://www.csmlove.com/index

H YBRID MOCK RIB HUNG HEM SHORTIE SOCKS:
1) Load cylinder needles into each of all the cylinder slots on your machine. (I used a 72 slot cylinder.) Using your Cast-On of choice (I use my Universal Bonnet) with sock weight scrap yarn, add your buckle and stem weights (I use a stem weight with three total weight pucks), work 10-15 rows. Stop yarn carrier at 3 o’clock so that the next needle to knit is the needle directly after 3pm

EASY HYBRID MOCK RIB CUFF:
2) Add your Sock Yarn with the heel spring engaged. Knit 10 Rows. Stop yarn carrier at 7 o’clock. Put cylinder spring on spring rest (if applicable).

Mock Rib setup in the 1x3 pattern:
3) Starting from 3 o’clock remove the first cylinder needle directly after 3pm and transfer its stitch to its neighbor. Thereafter remove every fourth cylinder needle (in the 1x3 pattern), transferring each removed needle’s stitch - all the way around. This pattern from 3pm will look like one empty slot then three cylinder needles - repeated all the way around. Return cylinder spring to the cylinder (if was put on the rest during needle manipulation).

4) Knit 20 rows and stop yarn carrier at 12 o’clock.

The next PRE-HEEL Step is done without moving the yarn carrier from 12 o’clock.

The PRE-HEEL SETUP (needs to be done before hanging the hem to reduce heel holes in the stitch transition).

NOTE ON MOCK RIB and ADDING CYLINDER NEEDLES TO EMPTY SLOTS: We will be returning cylinder needles to certain empty mock rib slots and transferring each specific neighbor stitch beside it to the newly inserted cylinder needle. Both neighbor stitches are transferred - that specific stitch we target for transfer is the bar directly behind each neighbor needle. This is REPEATED each time any cylinder needle is added to a empty slot for the Heel ONLY.

THE RULE - ALWAYS WORK AHEAD OF THE YARN CARRIER… For this ONE time we break this rule - yes we are being naughty*

5) DEEPER HEEL SETUP - With the yarn carrier still at 12 o’clock we place new cylinder needles into any mock rib empty slot within the first four needles behind 3 o’clock. Which needles are those? Those four are those on the side closest to 12 o’clock AT the 3 o’clock position not on the side closest to the 6 o’clock position (for clarity). Ensure to hang both neighbor stitches to each new cylinder needle as outlined above. Next AHEAD of the yarn carrier we also add a new cylinder needle as needed in the mock rib empty slot at 9 o’clock within those first four needles there and ensure all four needles behind 9 o’clock have cylinder needles - no empty slots. The yarn carrier should still be at 12 o’clock. Transfer neighbor stitches as outlined. Finally add cylinder needles to the all empty mock rib slots in the heel side of the cylinder (9-6-3) and ensure neighbor stitch transfers happen. Now move the yarn carrier to the 6 o’clock position.

HANG THE HEM:
6) Remove buckle and all weight from the machine. At the 3 o’clock point, the target we will look for is the SECOND needle at 3 o’clock. This is the first place we will hang the first bar from the first row knitted. To locate the first row stitch bar to hang, locate the beginning sock yarn tail (you may need to undo any simple not between the scrap and your sock yarn) and note the first bar “bump” after the yarn tail on the first row. Hang that bump on the second needle after 3pm. Continue in sequence, hanging each first row bar to the cylinder needles as you go around. As the first 10 rows had every needle in work and currently we are in a 1x3 pattern, whenever you come to a bump without a cylinder needle to now hang it on, hang it on the next needle - its neighbor. Therefore only on those needles there will be two stitches (which is okay) - this will secure those lives stitches. Continue all the way around. Stop the yarn carrier at 6 o’clock. Now we need to finish hanging the hem so in order to do this we need to hold down our knitted work (or temporarily just for this step - return the buckle and stem weight) and cautiously advance the yarn carrier to 1pm. There will be some tension due to the extra hung stitches so it might have some resistance - be gentle but firm. (If you added the buckle and weights to advance the yarn carrier please now remove temporarily). Now we have access to the last of the row to finish hanging the hem. Ensure you hang, up to and including, the needle directly after 3pm. Return the buckle and weights to the machine.

PRE-HEEL
7) Work 10 rows and stop your yarn carrier at 6 o’clock.

DEEPER HEEL - No Wrap Method
8) Now raise all the back needles up and out of work (the non-heel needles at the opposite side of the machine). This plan includes raising needles from the 5th needle behind both the 3 and 9 o’clock positions. Turn the crank so the yarn carrier is at the 12 o’clock position. Now we are completely ready to start the Heel. Ensure your Heel Spring is still in use and add your preferred Heel Weights/Forks.

DEEPER HEEL-DECREASE (this is 4 needles wider at the start than a regular heel)
9) Lift 1 needle on the right. Crank towards 9pm. Stop at 12pm.

10) Lift 1 needle on the left. Crank towards 3pm. Stop at 12pm.

11) Repeat steps 9 and 10 until you’ve worked to the heel hash marks - the yarn carrier should be on the RIGHT.
Always make sure the yarn is under the latch of last needle lowered, latches open and knitting is low on the needles so that all stitches can be knitted.

DEEP HEEL-INCREASE (this will end 3 needles after the 3 and 9 o’clock positions)
12) Lower 1 needle on the right. Crank towards 9pm. Stop at 12pm.

13) Lower 1 needle on the left. Crank towards 3pm. Stop at 12pm.

Be sure to note where you started (four needles behind the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions.) We will refer to this as the target.

14) Repeat Step 12 and 13 until all needles are down ONE needle in front of the TARGET (noted above) - This translates to three needles in work (lowered) past/behind both 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock with the carrier on the LEFT. STOP. Double check where you are. Slowly turn the crank and move the yarn carrier to the 6 o’clock position. We chose to stop one needle before how we started the heel to reduce the heel hole at the ankle heel intersection. Push down all the back raised needles (it puts them back into work). Ensure latches are open.

It’s ESSENTIAL that the yarn carrier should remain on the LEFT after last needle lowering. WHY should the yarn carrier be on the left? Because with the construction of this sock, it’s important to be going in the right direction in order to prime the next step and also although we are not using the ribber here, if we were it doesn’t rib in reverse which it would have to if we were going in the wrong direction.

FOOT:
15) For my size 9.5 men’s socks that I make for my boyfriend, with my gauge, yarn and settings, I wanted a foot of 70 rows so for this step so for me, I worked 69 rows. Thus WHATEVER is your FOOT rows - ensure to work ONE ROW less than the intended foot rows. Stop yarn carrier at 6pm.

16) Ensure to insert new cylinder needles in the remaining mock rib empty slots, hanging ONE specific neighbor stitch (the specific stitch is noted above) onto each newly inserted cylinder needle.

17) Work one row and stop the yarn carrier at the 6 o’clock position. WHY WE STOP ONE ROW BEFORE FINISHING THE FOOT - Ensuring the final row is all cylinder needles makes it easier to Kitchener (close the toes) when all the stitches are the same on the edge.

18) Lift all the back needles from 9-12-3. Crank to the 12 o’clock position. Add Heel Weights/Forks.

TOE-DECREASE:
19) Lift 1 needle on the right. Crank towards 9pm. Stop at 12pm.

20) Lift 1 needle on the left. Crank towards 3pm. Stop at 12pm.

21) Repeat the steps 19 and 20 above until there is 1 stitch before heel hash marks (marks on your cylinder for an average width Toe). For the last decrease row your yarn carrier should be to the RIGHT.

TOE-INCREASE:
22) A one-time special step to this recipe - Lower 2 needles down - 1 on the left and 1 on the right, latches open, crank towards 9pm. Stop at 12pm.

23) Lower 1 needle on the left. Crank towards 3pm. Stop at 12pm.

24) From now on, only 1 needle is lowered on each side. Continue lowering 1 needle per side until all needles on the LEFT are down - there will be one remaining on the right (that’s okay), crank so that the yarn carrier stops at the 6 o’clock position.

25) Lower all the raised needles. Work until the yarn carrier and final stitch before 3pm is knitted then stop - your sock is done! Our next step is to switch to scrap sock weight yarn - be sure to leave yourself enough yarn so that you can close the toes later using Kitchener. (I usually cut my sock yarn on the yarn source side of the top part of the yarn topper/mast that way and I can easily guide the joined scrap from the machine so I won’t have to thread anything manually).

26) Ensure the next stitch after 3 o’clock will be sock weight scrap yarn - I often use a hemostat clamp to clip it in place although you can just hold it with your finger and advance the yarn carrier. Work scrap sock yarn for two rows and add stitch markers at all the four beginning and end stitches of the sock on the machine. Then continue working scrap yarn for a minimum 5-10 rows or as needed if continuing with a second sock or other project.

You’re done! You did it! Once the sock is off the machine you can close the toes of your socks by watching Kitchenering Video (included in the matching sock video). Want to watch just the Kitchener Video?
See https://youtu.be/9VPfdHLcodA

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THIS IS THE FIRST ACCEPTABLE PROTOTYPE OF THIS DESIGN THUS ALL STEPS ARE HERE.

The METHOD for how these were made:
The PDF 5 page written pattern is
https://tinyurl.com/cdmrhhss1 OR
https://www.csmlove.com/s/csm_cd_mockribhhss1.pdf

The matching step-by-step video is CSM Cuff Down Mock Rib HH Shortie Sock - on YouTube at https://youtu.be/FY45JiqPga8

The Ravelry pattern is https://ravel.me/csm-cuff-down-mock-rib-hh-shortie-sock

For more info see https://www.csmlove.com/my-youtube-videos